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By Jennifer G. Sullivan, a Cut contributor and author of the “Ask a Beauty Editor” column. With over ten years of experience in beauty and wellness journalism, she is the host of Fat Mascara, an award-winning podcast that takes a closer look at beauty culture. Previously, she was the beauty director and features editor at Marie Claire.
Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photo: Getty Images
Is Korean sunscreen better than American sunscreen?
Dear Beauty Editor,
I’ve heard that Korea makes the best sunscreen in the world. Why are they so much better than what is sold in the United States?
Thanks!
Cynthia
The best sunscreen in the world is … the one you’re actually going to wear. Someone with a history of skin cancer may want the highest degree of protection possible in a water-resistant formula. Another person with sensitive skin may prefer a mineral (rather than chemical) sunscreen. There are plenty of American sunscreens that work for those purposes! Personally, I like a sunscreen that feels like moisturizer, rubs in quickly, and doesn’t pill. I’ve been able to find American sunscreens that check all those boxes, but some of my favorites are indeed from South Korea. Read on for why that might be — and a few of the Cut’s favorite K-beauty sunscreens.
How are South Korean sunscreens different from American versions?
In the United States, the FDA considers sunscreen a nonprescription drug. “Any sunscreen sold in the United States is regulated as a drug because it makes a drug claim: to help prevent sunburn or to decrease the risks of skin cancer and early skin aging caused by the sun,” says an FDA spokesperson. In many other countries, including South Korea, sunscreens are considered cosmetics, or functional cosmetics, which means they have fewer regulatory restrictions. (In the United States, there are only 16 approved sunscreen ingredients.)
South Korea’s Ministry of Food and Drug Safety publishes a list of ingredients that are banned from use in cosmetics; if an ingredient isn’t on that list, a manufacturer can use it if it’s able to show proof of its safety and efficacy. That means manufacturers have lots of sunscreen filters they can work with in their formulas, incentivizing companies to continue developing new, more advanced ingredients. (The FDA has not approved a new sunscreen ingredient since 1999, and the way the system is currently set up makes it extremely costly and time-consuming to do so.)
What sunscreen ingredients used in South Korea are banned in the U.S.?
Bemotrizinol is an example of an advanced sunscreen ingredient used worldwide (including South Korea) that is not yet approved in the United States. I’ve spoken to several people in the industry who believe it will be approved here later this year, but until that happens, it’s only available abroad. South Korean sunscreens may also feature the advanced, broad-spectrum sunscreen ingredients silatriazole and bisoctrizole, two formulator favorites that aren’t allowed in American sunscreens.
Am I allowed to buy South Korean sunscreen in the United States?
When I was working on this article about counterfeit cosmetics, I contacted the FDA to see if it was illegal to buy imported sunscreen, and a spokesperson replied, “In most circumstances, it is illegal for individuals to import drugs into the U.S. for personal use because the medicine has often not been evaluated by the FDA for use in the U.S.” That said, the government has never shown an inclination to crack down on these imports. However, whenever you buy cosmetics from other countries, you want to make sure they’re not counterfeit (these guidelines will help you do that).
Ultimately, the best way to shop for sunscreen is not to limit your options by country of origin before you begin. Instead, look for products on sale, ask for samples at stores, and try as many as possible. But if the versions from South Korea are your favorites, you certainly won’t be alone.
K-Beauty Sunscreens We Love
Some favorites from the Cut.
The Cut Team’s Overall Favorite
“I bought it for the first time in Seoul and have had multiple friends try it,” deputy style editor Joanna Nikas says. “Everyone loved it. It didn’t leave a white cast and melted nicely into the skin.”
The Best Korean Sunscreen for Dry Skin
$18
Despite the “watery” in its name, this sunscreen is more like a comforting, lightweight lotion, which is great for sensitive skin. I also like that it disappears immediately and doesn’t make my foundation pill.
The Best Korean Sunscreen for a Nice Finish
“So moisturizing and hydrating, you’ll feel like you just did an intense skin-care routine,” says Chinea Rodriguez, a writer for the Cut. “The finish is not too shiny but not too matte, either.”
The Best Korean Sunscreen for Dehydrated Skin
$9
“This centella- and hyaluronic-acid-infused formula melts into the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and looking dewy, not oily,” Rodriguez says.
The Best Korean Sunscreen for Sensitive Skin
This formula “has an SPF factor of 50 and is packed with plant extracts like aloe and avocado that help to moisturize and calm skin,” says Tembe Denton-Hurst, a writer at the Strategist covering beauty and books.
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